Eds Delorean

Month: November 2012

Dent Removal & Re-brush

Posted on by Eddie

I spent Monday 11/27/2012 in Piper City, IL with famed Delorean Customizer Rich W, and famed stainless craftsman Chris N! I met up with them at Rich W’s storage facility (barn) and finally got to see some of his creations. Chris N was visiting from Europe to do some work for Rich’s convertible Delorean, and to do some work on Deloreans around the midwest. Chris removed several dents, dings, and scratches from my stainless, and left my car looking the best its been in my five years of ownership!

My car:

Scratch/dent:

Gone:

All done!

Chris N, working his magic on a panel:

Chris N and Rich W:

A rare shot of me, pealing protective tape off my car:

The Delorean Limo in its trailer:

The Monster Delorean D-Rex, The famed Monster Garage GT40 Rock Crawler, and my car.

Assorted Project cars, my hood on the table:

The Convertible Delorean! Chris N had been working on it:

Parts:

Ouch:

Rich W is hoarding underbodies:

Another:

Panels:

Frame from a fire victim:

:

Another rolling frame:

Chris N did a fantastic job on my car. Well worth the money.

Costs:
5.5 hours of labor: Withheld
Lunch for all of us: $15
Blue Painters Tape: $6.38
Gas, tolls: $20

3.0L Eagle Premier PRV

Posted on by Eddie

The stock DeLorean features a 2.85 liter PRV engine. This engine was used in other cars for many years, and was continually improved upon. The 3.0L version of the 1991-1992 Eagle Premier/Dodge Monaco PRV Engine is something I’ve wanted for quite awhile. You can find out more about the car, and the engine here:

http://www.allpar.com/model/premier.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eagle_Premier
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PRV_engine

Several owners have successfully done this engine transplant, along with the addition of EFI. I’ve seen some nice looking transplants, and DeLorean Performance Industries is now offering 3.0 engines. I had heard of people buying the cheap crate engines from MOPAR in the 1990s, or even buying Premiers and Monacos for dirt cheap. I decided to buy my own before they become even scarcer.

Ron W’s 3.0 Engine:

The advantages are more displacement, more horsepower, even-fire, serpentine belt, a cleaner looking engine compartment, and a smaller intake manifold. Water pump replacement is now possible without removing the intake manifold!

I had been searching craigslist for the entire car, and even negotiated the price of a 1991 Premier with 200K miles down to $200! I decided against the sale, later regretted it, but the car was gone. Other cars were too expensive, so I finally settled on an engine I found at a scrap yard. The mileage is unknown, the plastic engine cover is cracked, and the price was a little high. The good news is the engine rotates, and it came with a 90 day warranty.

I bought a harbor freight 2-ton engine hoist secondhand, and a harbor freight engine stand. I got a friend and his truck to help me:

Two PRVs in the same garage!

Leaking Power steering pump:

Power Steering Pump Removed:

Exhaust manifold removed:

Intake Manifold coming off:

In the valley of death:

Found in the valley:

Thermostat housing:

Thermostat:

Current State:
Idler Pulleys Removed
Power Steering Pump Removed
Sensors removed
Plugs, wires removed
Intake Manifold Removed
Exhaust Manifolds removed
Coolant Drain plugs removed
Thermostat removed
Water Pump Removed

Current plans:
Continue to disassemble, inspect components

Costs:
2-ton Engine Hoist: $150
Engine Stand from Harbor Freight: $40
3.0L Engine from Southwest Auto Salvage: $250.00, $17.50 tax

 

Brake Booster Adjustment

Posted on by Eddie

For years, I felt the brake pedal on my car traveled way too far. I replaced components, bled the system, and doubted every part of my work. It was suggested at the Fall Tech Session that I adjust the rod on the brake booster. After removing the master cylinder, and wedging a length of 2×4 between the brake pedal and my driver’s seat, the adjusting rod becomes exposed. While holding it with locking pliers, loosening it with some PB Blaster and an 8mm wrench, I was able to free it.

Here’s the adjusting rod removed:

I used increments of about 1/8 of an inch, to extend it, remount the master cylinder, and test the brake pedal travel. Finally I got to about 2 inches of travel before any brake pressure is felt. I used a little blue loctite on the threads once I found the sweet spot.

For the first time in many years, the brake pedal in the car feels very firm.